Church of San Giovanni Elemosinario
Works by Titian and Portenone
Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni
Venice, Veneto 30125
This church is ancient: founded in 1071, it was completely destroyed by the disastrous Rialto fire in 1514, and was subsequently rebuilt in Renaissance style. It is tucked away behind a frescoed arch, and is usually surrounded by the stalls of street vendors, making it a fun scavenger hunt to even find. Once you've actually located it, you'll be rewarded with beautiful works of art to see by the maestros Titian and Pordenone. Interestingly enough, the two were apparently archenemies. When Titian returned from working in Bologne, he found that Pordenone had gained much favor in the city, and the two proceeded to duke it out with one another (as artists) by painting their respective altarpieces in this church--a contest that has survived for hundreds of years, hidden away in this old chapel.
Nearest Train or Bus:
Vaporetto stop: San Silvestro (Line 1)
Best Modes of Transportation: Ferry/Boat Walking
Notes: Located approximately halfway between the Rialto and San Tomà.
Parking Availability: No
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