
Attached to the mainland but separate in geography, vegetation, architecture and culture, and one of the country’s great tourist destinations, this former haven for religious outcasts still welcomes all to its historic towns and sweeping beaches.
Districts
Cape Cod is shaped roughly like the arm of someone flexing a bicep. It is divided into four regions from west to east or from the "shoulder" to the "hand": the Upper Cape, the Mid Cape, the Lower Cape and the Outer Cape. Each region is made up of towns and most towns include several villages. The Upper Cape town of Bourne, for example, is made up of seven villages: Sagamore, Bournedale, Buzzards Bay, Bourne, Monument Beach, Pocasset and Cataumet.
To the north of the Cape, enclosed by the arm to the south and east and by the mainland to the west, is Cape Cod Bay. To the south, between the Cape and the islands of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, is Nantucket Sound. To the southwest is Buzzards Bay and to the east is the Atlantic Ocean. Thanks to its low and sandy profile, the Cape has countless inland marshes, rivers and ponds, many of which are great for swimming, canoeing and fishing.
Three major thoroughfares traverse the Cape. Route 6 is a four-lane highway for much of its length and extends all the way to Provincetown on the tip of the Cape. Route 28 is a slower road that ends at the "elbow" of the Cape; its many stoplights, bargain shopping opportunities and restaurants make it a parking lot on summer weekends. Route 6A, also known as the Old King's Highway, runs parallel to Route 6 along the Upper and Mid Cape, but is closer to the shore. Its graceful turns through picturesque neighborhoods make it a favorite scenic route.
Entertainment
With its beaches, lakes, rivers and parks, Cape Cod is a haven for outdoor activity. The waters of Nantucket Sound, Cape Cod Bay and Buzzards Bay are very pleasant for swimming in July and August and are bearable in June and September. The cold-water Outer Cape beaches, on the Atlantic Ocean, attract surfers, especially when there are storm swells and are quite good for windsurfing. Paddling and fishing are popular along the beaches and in the inland rivers and ponds. Just about every town has a rental shop or two that can outfit you with a kayak, sailboard or daysailer.
The star attraction on Cape Cod is, of course, the beach. However, the Cape's proximity to the rich culture of Boston has insured that the arts have not been left behind.
To the chagrin of real estate developers, much of the Cape is too sandy or swampy for building. Their loss is your gain. The Cape has many beautiful parks, including the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Reserve and the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. The quintessential Cape Cod experience may be a walk along the Cape Cod National Seashore, 40 stunning miles of beach and an incredible experience in any season.
You can also explore the Cape's trails, such as the Cape Cod Rail Trail, the Provincetown Bike Trails and the trail along the Cape Cod Canal. Also, the slow pace of Cape traffic makes biking, walking and running feasible on all but the busiest roads, although the shoulder can be narrow. Bicycle rentals are easily found in most towns.
Influenced both by a relaxed, beach-going culture and by its New England heritage, Cape Cod's entertainment options are as varied as its visitors and inhabitants.
Dining and Drinking
If you like seafood, you will be very happy eating on Cape Cod. Many restaurants on the Cape have a similar menu: fish, shellfish and lobster—served boiled, baked, or fried—and a smattering of beef, chicken and pasta dishes. The formula works well. You'll find good examples of this cuisine include Clancy’s, the Lobster Pot and the Mayflower. Seafood houses, located all over the Cape, are great places to celebrate the first night of vacation and the last night before going home.
If you want your seafood fried and quick, clam shacks abound. Although the price of shellfish has skyrocketed in recent years, a pint of fried clams and a lobster roll (pieces of lobster mixed with mayonnaise and served on a toasted hot dog bun) is a must-have Cape Cod lunch. Throw in some clam "chowda" for good measure. Look for these stands along Route 28 and along the canal.
Ice cream seems to be its own food group in New England and the Cape is no exception with upwards of a dozen homemade ice cream stands. The flavors and freshness at these places make Ben & Jerry look like amateurs.
The Cape is truly still a summer destination so many restaurants are open only during the height of the season (essentially the end of May until about mid-October.) However, as the year-round population grows, and as tourists are coming to enjoy the Cape’s off-season pleasures more often, a number of establishments are lengthening their own season accordingly. The Mid Cape area has more off-season choices, including many of the chain restaurants along Route 132 in Hyannis.
After dinner, the Cape hot spots are concentrated on Route 28 between Yarmouth and Dennis, Main Street in Hyannis and downtown Provincetown. P-town is famous for its gay night life (and straight, too!), while the Mid Cape bars attract summer students and singles in hordes. Those seeking a more relaxing end to the day may find it at a waterfront restaurant bar, where you can watch the lighthouses blinking as you plan for the day ahead.
Where To Stay
The population of Cape Cod triples in the summer, so it is no surprise that there is an abundance of accommodation options. That said, it should also be stated that if you plan to visit Cape Cod in July, August or any weekend between June and October, you should book your room early. From campsites to resort hotels, lodgings are booked far in advance by their summer regulars, sometimes leaving slim pickings for the spontaneous traveler.
If you plan to spend time on the beach, one important consideration is getting there. Although you will pay more to stay someplace within walking distance of a beach, you will be more than rewarded by missing the traffic jams, full parking lots and fees that come with a drive to the shore. Craigville Beach, Provincetown, Yarmouth and the National Seashore towns all have hotels near or on the beach. Also, a quick word about climate: most of the simpler lodging options will not have air conditioning; you will almost certainly not miss it. In the summer months, the sun is quite strong during the day, but the temperature is not likely to exceed 90 degrees (F) and the humidity is quite low. And even in July and August, the evenings can be cool enough to require pants and a light sweater. Nights are usually quite pleasant for sleeping.
In all but the biggest hotels, your Cape lodgings and proprietors are guaranteed to have a lot of character and may even be the most memorable part of your stay. Perhaps you will find yourself among the thousands who make a reservation for next year during check-out.
Cape Cod by the Numbers
Population: 226,809
Major Industries: Tourism
Time Zone: GMT-5
Area Code: 508
Average Winter Temperature: 32 degrees F
Average Summer Temperature: 70 degrees F
Did You Know?
Cape Cod was named by Mariner Bartholomew Gosnold in 1602 and became a popular summer retreat for wealthy families from Boston and Providence in the mid 19th century. Currently, Cape Cod is one of the most popular retirement spots in the US and nearly 25% of the population is retired.
Orientation/Geography
Cape Cod is located on the coast of Massachusetts and sits on miles of sandy beaches. Cape Cod is comprised of about a dozen smaller towns which belong to the regions of Upper, Mid, and Lower Cape Cod.
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